Grille geared toward fine dining

BY JOHN D. LINFORD Standard-Examiner correspondent
December 1, 2006

   The drive to The Grille at Wolf Creek Resort is long enough to leave the world behind but close enough to Ogden for one to almost be surprised at having arrived.
   Upon reaching the resort and locating the clubhouse, one finds seating in a simple, rustic and intimate dining room, which accommodates only 30 guests, and a guaranteed pleasant fine-dining experience.
   The guarantee comes from newly arrived food and beverage director Greg Prososki, whose expertise is from resorts like Pebble Beach; his assistant and executive chef Tim Christensen, a graduate of Western Culinary Institute in Portland, Ore., who has worked in kitchens over 30 years; and an experienced staff.
   Christensen says The Grille’s focus is on superb fine dining, nice wines and an intentionally downscaled menu — offering he and his staff the freedom to be creative.
   “I like to study why cooks in an indigenous region do what they do, what their cooking methods are, as well as what they’re cooking. At The Grille, we’re currently doing a lot of specials featuring game, elk and the like. Specials featuring seafood are coming soon,” Christensen says.
   From the menu, the sea bass is probably the favorite, according to Christensen. The Grille prepares its bass with a light citrus/soy sauce and Thai flavors. The cut is thick, and the price depends on current market values.
   “The cut is important. It helps the fish stay very nice, moist, delicious,” Christensen says.
   Other menu highlights include Mint Pesto Lamb Chops, with garlic mashed potatoes and fresh vegetables ($32.99); Caramelized Wild King Salmon (Christensen’s favorite, at $18.99); and Medallions of Filet Mignon Oscar, prepared with crab meat, asparagus and bearnaise sauce served with mashed potatoes ($29.99).
   The salmon comes on a mound of jasmine rice, with grilled brussels sprouts under a blanket of tangy, lemongrass beurre blanc.
   “Our Oscar is the traditional dish,” says Christensen. “If you like Oscar, if you’ve had it before, you’ll know exactly what to expect. It’s a good example of our intentionally downscaled menu. We’ve done this with the menu so that we can have the freedom and flexibility to offer seasonal and inspired specials.”
   The Grille’s Sunday brunch, according to Christensen, is family-oriented and family-affordable (children age 5 and younger eat for free, those 6 to 12 years old eat for $8.99, and adults for $14.99).
   “It’s really a nice affair. We have a carvery, omelet station, exotic fruits and cheeses, deli salads and a full array of breakfast items like smoked salmon and eggs Benedict,” Christensen says.

Starters    

Dinner begins with drinks and an elegant tray of basil pesto, shaved Parmesan in olive oil and a sun-dried tomato tampenade.
   Each is a subtle taste to enjoy with the loaf of caramelized onion bread, while enjoying the view of Ogden Valley.
   Appetizers include Maryland crab cakes on a bed of baby greens ($9.99); pot stickers (smoked pork dumplings with a spicy peanut sauce, $6.99); stuffed portobello mushroom filled with cream cheese and mozzarella, breaded, fried and served over marinara sauce ($7.49); a hummus platter with marinated red peppers, artichokes, Kalamata olives and warm pita bread ($8.99); and french onion soup ($5.99).
   The staff’s love of freedom extends to the starters, also. Currently, The Grille offers a presentation of grilled scallops, drizzled with saffron sauce, topped with diced tomato, served over wilted spinach leaves and garnished with crispy fried leeks.
   Wolf Creek’s Grille also offers a Seafood Gazpacho Martini. Served cold, it comes in a tall martini glass with jumbo shrimp in a fresh, light and spicy tomato broth, with avocado, cucumber, tomato, peppers, onion, lemon and Tabasco ($9.99).

Specials, desserts    

Elk stands proud among the Grille’s fall entree specials. Ranch-raised in, and imported from, New Zealand, this large, dark chop is a generous cut from the ribs and comes peppered, seared and propped against baked baby potatoes and sits on a bed of sauteed vegetables. Trumpet-shaped white chanterelle mushrooms offer refinement to the wild, primal presentation.
   The Grille’s desserts include blackberry cobbler, Death by Chocolate Cake, creme brule, bread pudding and cheesecake, each for $5.49.
   The beauty of the cobbler is what pastry chef Dorney Peterson does with the topper. Peterson’s cobbler crust is like a very light, fluffy and tall sugar cookie, crunchy and sweet.
   Seasonally flexible creativity extends also to the dessert specials. The cherry torte, like the cobbler, is a chance to stage the pastry chef’s art. The torte has large, ripe, full-flavored cherries — of course — but proves to be all about Peterson’s buttery, crisp and flaky crust.